The first 500 miles had been crazy this year, hot desert days, cold rainy days, my grandmothers passing, being homesick, etc. But none the less, I was 500 miles in again and already the thoughts of the Sierras were entering my head. I was looking forward to getting to the Sierras and embracing what they had in store for me this year. The 500 mile mark is at a dirt road, it is nothing amazing and as I would come to know, most huge mile markers along the Trail are not in exciting places, there is nothing more but the solitude of the land. The desert does not care if you hike 500 miles, no celebration is given out by the land, it is a personal accomplolsihment, a deep feeling of success, and then of course knowing there was still so many more miles left, so much time left out there. A short time after the 500 marker comes Hikertown, a place that seems as though Hollywood left a movie scene setup, seriously, its a lot full of old Hollywood props and such, and it is in the middle of the desert, right before the long, flat, hot strech of the California aqueduct and Mojave Desert. It is a very strange place indeed, but a welcome place for hikers to get out of the heat and rest. The Trail Angles there have a garage set up for hikers to rest, shower, cook, etc. It is a great stop, despite being very out of place, however the desert is a place where so much is out of place, so maybe its not that strange. I decided to stay at Hikertown until nighttime and then hike the aqueduct at night to avoid the miserable heat and no water. So, around 7 pm I left Hikertown and started this strech, I had remembered this strech from last year and I was dreading it, but I had to hike it, so I did, and when the night finally came it became pretty scary, being out in the middle of the Mojave desert at night is freaking, there is just no other word for it. And the wind, heavens to Betsey, the wind is nuts, enough to knock you right over on your face. It is about 18 miles from Hikertown to the next water, which is at a bridge in the middle of windmill hell. I got there at about midnight or just a bit after, I camped in the middle of a field with three other hikers, it was the absoulte worse camping spot, but we were so tired and needed to sleep. I tied my shoes to my pack, covered my eyes to avoid dust flying in them, got in my bag and tried to sleep, but yeah right, I could not sleep, no way, the sound of the wind alone is loud and it kept me up, the hard surface and inability to blow up my neo air made everything worse, no way I was not going to sleep. Its one thing to not sleep back at home, but out here when I am hiking 20-30 miles everyday and beating my body up and putting it through difficult enviornments it becomes a big deal and it is dangerous. Though for me, sleep has always been hard, it is rare I ever sleep a full night and so what was I suppose to expect out here, no matter how exhausted I am, most nights sleep is a battle and so it was true even out there on the Trail. In the morning, well, I was beat, I could not keep hiking, I sat under that bridge with the bees and rested, tried anyways, and around 4 pm I continued hiking planning to reach the resupply town of Techacpai the next day. Again I hiked to about 10 pm and then camped. I knew I had to get out of this rontinue, sure it was hot out during the day, but I just needed to be back to the normal wake up and hike early and camp early life. I was a hiker who was tired at 7 pm and so hiking until 10 or midnight was not doing me anything good, it was screwing with me, so no more of that crazy night hiking I decided. I made it Techpacpi the next day and took two days off. I needed to rest, to write and reflect, its vital to do this along the way or it all just becomes a blur, so it was my personal plan to take time to reflect, time to write and rest, afterall what was the rush? Canada was going to move north or dissapear, so what was the rush? I would get to Canada on my own time, and trust me from the deepest places of my heart, I was no matter what going to reach Canada this year. For a thru hiker, allowing the idea of, "whats the rush," in to your head is challenging, because we hike so many miles everyday and feel unproductive when we are not hiking, we have no purpose when we are not hiking. Being in town is good for a bit, but after awhile it makes me at least feel stuck, feel like I am making no progress, those are the feelings that propell me to keep hiking, that and the fact that I am a bit crazy and feel grounded and content in the wild. From Tehacpai the Trail spans north towards places like Lake Isabella, and Kennedy Meadows. Being a thru hiker, you have to stop at Toms at Kennedy Meadows, make no mistake this is the Southern KM, at mile 702. Kennedy Meadows is known as the entrance to the Sierras, but it is still in the desert. Tom, is a Trail Angel that goes out of his way to care for hikers and he opens his home to us. To all of the Trail Angels who opened their homes and hearts to us dirty hikers, there are just no words to thank you, I am forever in debetd to your kindess and generousity. These people spend their summers taking in hikers, driving us around, doing our laundry, offering us advice or encouragment, making us laugh and cry and so to all of you along the PCT, thank you, thank you, for without all of you, a thru hikers journey would be much harder and much less filled with love.
Leaving KM, I wondered what was ahead, what were the Sierras holding for me this year, was there really no snow? I love snow, dont get my wrong, I am a snowboarder and ice climber, but the snow in the Sierras in 2011 was a true challenge, it tested everything in me and showed me the true power of the wild. The snow and the water flooded the Sierras in 2011, it was a record year, 300 percent more snow than any other year in recorded history. I had made it through last year,but it was one of the most challenging times of my life and though it gave the mountains such a special beauty, but it also took so much enjoyment away from me. I wanted to see the Sierras in a season where it was just the mountains, no creek crossings up to my waist or higher, no post holing, or losing the Trail. I wanted to see it in a different light. I am proud I made it through the Sierras in 2011, i would not trade those days for anything, but I just wanted a new take on them, so I wondered how it would be now, what would the Sierras be like this year, 2012? My concerns and ideas were soon settled by the miles and miles that went by without any snow.
Many times it was quite overwhleming to see those places so dry and free of the challenge of snow and water. I remember getting to the top of Forester Pass, 13,100 feet the highest point on the PCT and I could see for miles, no snow, that was one of the most powerful moments in my life. As I stood there, I felt so much grace, I felt welcomed and totally safe, feelings that were very rare last year at that same point. I felt so happy standing there once again, it is so spectular up there, it still blows my mind when I think of it. God, was finally giving me a break and I believe telling me to enjoy every moment this year. There it was, the Sierras were snow free, and safe this year. I am not a wimp by any means, I love challenege and mountaineering is wonderful, I just wanted a backpacking trip this summer without all the other crazy stuff from 2011 and God's grace allowed me that. Descending Forester Pass is like being in a totally different world, it is hard to describe the natrual beauty found there.
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