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Monday, October 17, 2016

For the Love of a Horse- The Story of Hayduke and I

It was a extremely hot day down in Supai, a village located in the Grand Canyon, the home to the Havasupai Tribe. The sun was burning my skin, the heat was giving me a headache and as I walked pass a home; I saw him. A beautiful horse lying down in the dirt in the front yard, his legs stretched out, his body covered in sweat, he appeared lifeless, but, he was not :) As I looked a little further through the wire fence I saw that his hooves were in terrible shape, his hip bones protruding through his sweaty and dirty body, his ribs so visible he looked like a skeleton. His spirit gone, his heart weary and lonely and it was then that I knew, that horse was going to be mine. I was going to get him out of there, come hell or high water, that horse was mine. On this trip; I wasn't down there guiding, rather I was down there to gather information and pictures of the abuse that haunted the canyon, the abuse that became the reason I quit my job. I left Supai a day later, with the knowledge that getting him out of that place would take awhile, it might not happen at all and he might not make the hike out, but, I was going to try. After all, I promised him that I would get him out.

I was no stranger to Suapi, or the Tribe, up until the 4th of June; I was a guide, taking people down to camp at Havasu Falls. After finding out more information about the wrangler our company used to haul our camping gear up and down the canyon, I quit my job, no longer was I going to keep my mouth shut about the horrific animal abuse that took place in that canyon, no longer was I going to accept what all the other guides and people did, I was not going to accept the answer of that is just the way it is. NO, it was time to stand up, yell at the top of my lungs and tell everyone I knew about the truth of that deceptively beautiful place. I spoke to the media, created a page on FB to advocate for the animals and told everyone I knew. The attention began to grow and the pressure was felt by the Tribe. While all the attention was being brought to the abuse I worked everyday to get him out, every night, I dreamt of him. I was ready at anytime to go, hike down and get my horse, bring him out, take him to Flagstaff and rehab him, love him, and begin my journey with him. On July 26th, I was at Best Buy and I got the text, come get your horse, it was around 6pm. I packed my backpack with everything I would need for an 8 mile hike down to the village and a hike back out not knowing how long it was going to take. My heart was screaming in happiness, I was getting my horse, I was on my way to rescue him and man, that was an awesome feeling. Wade drove my car, I couldn't drive, I felt high, I was too excited to focus on driving the 3.5 hrs. We arrived at the Hilltop around 11:30pm and headed down the trail to Supai in the dark. We reached the village around 3am and were excited to get him around 630 am, but things did not happen the way I had hoped. When I arrived at the owner's house, my horse was gone, I was terrified that something had happened to him. I knocked on the door and was told that my horse and his owner had left the village hours ago.
I started running. I had not had anything to eat, nor had I slept and none of that mattered. All that mattered was that I needed to get to my horse. I had made a promise to save him and so I ran my heart out, crying, praying he would actually be at the Hilltop. I ran 8 miles up, arriving around 940am at the Hilltop, he was there, my heart relieved to see him. I met up with the owner, he had run him up the canyon, riding him for a mile and a half. I had to keep my cool though I wanted to smack him and yell at him for what he had done to my horse and so many others, but I knew I just needed to get my horse and paid him $250 like we had agreed on. I will never forget the second he took his lead rope off and walked off. There I was, in the hot sun, alone for the first time with my horse. MY HORSE!!!!! I was told by his owner he did not like people, but judging from the way he nuzzled right into me as I attached my lead rope to his old halter, I knew that wasn't true. I had a HORSE!! I was excited, nervous, scared, worried, tired, hungry, but, I was content and I could see relief in his eyes. Well, I had a HORSE now, so of course he needed a name. I named him Hayduke, in honor of Edward Abbey's writing and passion for the Southwest. So, now I had a HORSE and he had a name. We sat together at the Hilltop in the heat for almost 7 hours, his feet looked like paddles, his body like a skeleton, but I knew he was a fighter, I knew that he knew that I saved him and was going to get him out of there. We spent a few hours together hunkering down under the outhouse looking down into the canyon where he had been living, a place he was never going to see again. Hayduke was transported to Flagstaff and taken to a wonderful place, that first night in Flagstaff was filled with a ton of commotion and unknowns. I watched as the farrier trimmed his feet, as the first set of abscesses appeared in his feet. It was bad, his feet were in bad shape. I remember feeling like a zombie, so tired both emotionally and physically and worried beyond words about this amazing creature that I had rescued and instantly fallen in love with. The next day, Hayduke's first day in Flagstaff he ate and ate and ate and ate, and he seemed calm and happy. He seemed as though he felt safe. The Vet came out on his second day and gave him an exam, did blood work, etc. Again his feet were a concern and we began a daily process of soaking, medicating, wrapping his feet to help open and drain his abscesses. Hayduke moved from that first place to a ranch in Flagstaff where I spent hours everyday trying to heal his feet and allow him to eat as much as he wanted. He also received an excessive amount of love, he probably was so sick of the kisses and hugs, but he got him, everyday. His story began to touch others, so many were rooting for him. I became aware of how generous, kind and loving the horse community is as well as random people. I was nurturing this wonderful creature back to health. He ate and ate and somedays that is all he did :) he became my best friend so quickly and my love for him grew daily. I woke up everyday excited to drive out and spend my days with him, it was as though the rest of the world stopped and it was just Hayduke and I. He was gaining weight, getting some of his spunk back, but his feet, his feet were not improving. On August 15th the vet came out to the ranch, Hayduke had been lying down and I could tell his pain was immense. The vet opened a deep abscess that bleed like crazy, he preformed a series of X-rays and I could see it in the Vet's eyes that Hayduke was in trouble.
Hayduke was taken into the hospital that night and put on IV meds, had medical wraps on his feet and received medical care around the clock. I spent my days lying in his stall with him, most of the day, he would lie down next to me, put his head in my lap against my chest and just sit there. It was like magic, but, I knew in my heart that he was sick and that no amount of love was going to fix this. After four days in the hospital it became apparent on X-ray and by watching him that his pain was not going to be manageable, he was suffering and the abuse and neglect he had faced could not be reversed. It was time to say goodbye, time to allow him to rest and be at peace. I remember that day like it was yesterday. It was a cold rainy day, I knew I had to say goodbye. The Vet told me that I did not have to stay, but, there was no way I was going to leave him alone. It was about 430 in the afternoon, I led Hayduke outside his stall and behind the office. The Vet explained how the process worked, I hated it, I was so angry and heartbroken, but I could not let him suffer any longer. The vet make a braid for me from Hayduke's tail and handed it to me. He gave Hayduke the first injection, in a few minutes it caused him to collapse to the ground, I remember screaming out, crying my brains out. I felt so sad, so hurt, so fucking mad, so fucking mad. Hayduke now laid on the ground, his beautiful body right in front of me. I went to his head, started loving on him, the second injection went in and he faded like he was going under for surgery. I told Hayduke that I loved him, that I was sorry. And then, the last one, the vet whispered a few seconds later, he has no heart beat. I wanted to throw up, I wanted to run down to Supai and yell at his former owner. I wanted my Hayduke back. I wanted his silky nose to nuzzle my face, I wanted a story with him. But in a matter of minutes that was all gone. I felt like I had failed him. I felt so broken so lonely. I had three weeks with Hayduke and in that short period of time, I feel like I had a lifetime. A lifetime filled with love, hope, smiles, life lessons and compassion, for what else is there in life?
Hayduke is now in my heart forever, that is where is was always meant to be. He taught me so much, much more than I ever expected to learn. He loved me and I loved him and though I wish he was still here, I know that my job in all of this was to get him out of suffering and to send him to heaven knowing love. I could have never prepared myself for what Hayduke brought to my life. Out of all of my adventures, this one truly changed me. I am humbled to have been a part of Hayduke's life. I am honored to have been there as his friend at the end. I am grateful to so many people- Scott and Terry Small, Kathy Oliver, Christine Griffin, Don and Marci Walters, Ruthann Penn, Dr Shane Dennis, Colleen and Dan Larrabee, ATGNIphotoworks, all my horsey friends on Facebook- too may to list, but thank you to everyone who donated, gave their advice, support, friended me to help, assisted Hayduke and I in anyway. Thank you for holding some of Hayduke in all of your hearts.

In loving memory of George W Hayduke, the horse from Supai




Sunday, October 16, 2016

It is never really goodbye

My time in Arizona, in the USA is almost over. I am leaving on the 25th of November to fly to Ushuaia, Argentina to begin a five year solo trek that will end at the northern tip of Alaska. The last year of my life has been filled with so many stories, some really sad, really sad and others great. I have struggled with the decision to leave my life and walk for 5 years, but, after a lot of reflecting I came back to my desire to travel, walk and open my heart to the unknown, to new places, new people and to a life that will allow me adventure and the ability to create a once in a lifetime story for myself and for others. I plan to travel from the southern tip of South America to the northern tip of North America, by foot. I am selling almost everything I own, saying goodbye to all my friends and family. And preparing to embark on the biggest journey of my life.

Wednesday, May 4, 2016

Should I Stay or Should I Go??

I have failed to write since the new year, maybe it is because my life has seemed to be one challenge, one surprise and one puzzle after another. I feel like I have been on the constant move in my life, sometimes moving in positive directions and at other times moving in bad directions. Back in November after neurosurgery on my cervical spine I suffered a minor stroke and I was told by my physical therapists and occupational therapists that my active lifestyle was going to limited and was going to have to be changed. The first time I went rock climbing after the neurosurgery I could definitely feel the loss of strength on my right side, but, that only made me want to climb harder and more often , and today, 6.5 months later, I am climbing almost everyday, climbing hard, and my left side has become my dominant side. I have learned to deal with my increased clumsy gait and have started to just except that my memory isn't the best anymore, but, I am alive and in another 6.5 months, I will be heading out to hike from Argentina to Alaska something I have dreamt of for years. I have struggled within myself to except myself for who I am, for the obstacles I have overcome and for the changes that surgery has brought in my life. In addition to neurosurgery I have undergone vocal chord and heart surgery.

Surgery stresses the body and the mind and yes, I have had to silently deal with all of these stressors. I have also been able to look back on my life before all of the surgeries and after all of my thoughts settle, I am left feeling lucky and optimistic that life from here will just continue to be a grand adventure. I have learned so much from my patients at the hospital, they have taught me about love, compassion, courage and in many many ways made me a much better human. I have been guiding again in the Grand Canyon this season and it also brings me so much joy, it is a very rewarding thing to be apart of another person's adventure. So many great people have been apart of mine and to be able to be apart of so many other people's I am extremely humbled. I have developed some amazing friendships with people I hold dear to my heart. My life for the first time is starting to feel like its coming together. And then, my thoughts are redirected to my upcoming journey, a trip that will take me away from all of this and throw me into a 5 year life that is unknown and then I second guess myself, should I just stay in Flagstaff, or should I just get on that plane in November? It is by far my greatest struggle these days. Is n't that who I am, a great adventurer? A wanderer? A dreamer? Not only will I leave my life in Flagstaff for this journey, but I will say goodbye to my family- people that I love so very much and my heart does break that I will be leaving them as well. But, when I sit and think about selling everything I own, getting on a plane and hiking for 5 years, I get a smile that seems to inspire me, I feel a sense of pure freedom and adventure and for me that is what I want my life to be. I can't deny the pain of leaving and saying goodbye to all of those I love, but, if i don't go then I will forever feel like there is a hole, a dream that I was too scared to go for and I know despite anything else that I couldn't live with that. So for now, until my plane leaves the US I will be climbing, hiking in the Grand Canyon, writing, planning my journey, and trying to embrace the time I have with everyone in my life right now. So here is to adventure, family, friends, and big dreams :)